Posted on September 16th, 2009 — in Animals, Eating Out, Nutrition Tips + More
Catering for parties can be hard work, finding a caterer and making sure you like what they are cooking, but there is another, better way to cater for your event. It is really a very old technique of cooking and has been around since the medieval times, and in my opinion it is still the optimum way to feed hundreds of hungry individuals. Having a hog roast. In England hog roasts have been a best-selling way of catering big parties or events for a really long time. Considering what you actually get when you have a hog roast for what you pay it is stunning, it is also alot less formal than many other catering techniques and therefore is a wonderful alternative. The things you will want for a hog roast include all the cooking equipment and a chef for the day, the creature you want to roast and all the required side dishes and sauces, usually a hog roasting company will be able to provide you this complete service. The company that i employed made sure that i had everything that i could perhaps want and were really great at carving the meat and serving my invitees, i found this company on the internet, the chef turned up at my house (where i was having my party) in more than enough time to cook the hog in time for when i desired to eat. I hope that the next time you have a party or event that you will think of having a hog roast.
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Posted on August 11th, 2009 — in Animals, Nutrition Tips + More, Online Recreation Resources
Not everyone will enjoy a whole hog roast. Slowly cooking a big whole hog on a rotisserie over a fire pit is a lot of work requiring time, money and planning. However, for those game enough to tackle cooking a whole hog; this becomes an dramatic summer celebration event which you will remember for years. Impress your friends and more significantly impress your taste buds aswell. The sight of a whole pig roasting over a fire pit is unforgettable and creates an air of celebration and good times. The glazed, golden skin is beautiful and delicious, this is truly a feast for all your senses!So how do you do it? How do you go about preparing and executing roasting a whole pig? Well that’s the fun part! Are you ready for an unforgettable adventure? You’ve come to the right place. You will find links to all the important elements you’ll need to plan a pig roast, from sourcing a whole hog, to sourcing or building a whole pig rotisserie, to recipes and how-to’s to get you started. I have even included some info on roasting a whole lamb as well! I really hope you have fun finding the right hog roasting company for you!
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Posted on June 2nd, 2008 — in Animals
In part one of this 3-part instructional we pointed out that some canine behaviors are ingrained, while others are learned. We also highlighted successful ways to control excessive barking. In part 2 we will deal with effective techniques to stop biting.
Canine Behavior Problems: Biting
According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.
Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.
The first thing to do when confronted with biting dogs is to discern “why” the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.
Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver’s hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse’s Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to “return violence with violence.”
Effective Ways to Stop Biting Dogs
When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, “No bite!” The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.
This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.
Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.
Preventing Aggressive Behavior in Dogs that Leads to Biting
Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.
One of the best methods to prevent this type aggressive behavior in dogs is to take the dog among crowds - muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.
Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.
What About Puppies that Bite?
Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make with puppies that bite is to let them get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such “innocent” biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.
Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.
How to Handle Aggressive Behavior in Puppies
When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say “No bite!” in a firm tone. If that doesn’t work, use what is called “the shakedown method,” which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat “No bite!”
Correcting aggressive behavior in puppies older than 12 weeks is done the following way: grab the puppy by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lift him off his front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat “No bite!” If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.
This correction method must be consistent. If you permit a puppy to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.
Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being “mauled” during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.
Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog’s nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.
At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, “How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People” at Savvy Dog Lover, www.savvy-dog-lovers.com.
©2006 Lori S. Anton
Savvy Dog Lover editor
Published writer and dog lover, Lori Anton, has been writing for nearly 30 years. She is founder and editor of Writers Write Now, offering original professionally written SEO content, quick content, and free content for web sites; visit Writers Write Now. Lori lives in rural Wyoming with her husband, Jeff, and their diabetic canine companion, Muffy.
Lori S. Anton is also an editor for the Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover - where the best bones are buried!
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Posted on May 21st, 2008 — in Animals
An essential to your dog’s health is his/her regular annual checkup with the vet. The vaccinations* which are given to your dog each year ensure your dog’s immunity to some common infectious diseases. And when the vet gives the vaccinations*, it’s also an excellent opportunity for a thorough physical examination to be carried out, and a time to discuss any minor problems or issues which you feel may be affecting your dog’s health or wellbeing. This is a time when your vet may pick up inherited diseases and the like (when your dog is young) so they can be treated early, or just kept an eye on. And as your dog gets older, the vet may find the early signs of more sinister illnesses.
I recently took my dogs for their annual checkup, and for the first time alarms were raised about matters of significant concern - it was thought that Kara might have early stages of lymphoma (cancer) - which, fortunately, tests then proved to be not the case. And Jet apparently has something akin to the early stages of cataracts in humans in her eyes, and according to the vet, Jet is likely to go progressively blind over the next several years. At least knowing this in advance gives me the opportunity to watch for any developing signs and, if and when necessary, adapt her outings and home environment to take into account any sight loss, and most importantly, it has made me realise that vitamin and mineral supplementation in dogs is actually a very wise idea.
Worming and “de-flea-ing” your dog are the commonest forms of health measures which you probably undertake yourself for your dog. Fleas infest almost every dog at some time. Sometimes a lot of the time. Dogs which socialise with other dogs outside the home tend to become infested the most often. Fleas can carry disease and parasites, including tapeworm.
But fleas are extremely irritating for your dog. They often cause intense itching, which in turn can cause your dog to damage his/her skin by vigorous scratching. Some dogs are allergic to flea bites. Even after the fleas have been doused with flea poison and killed, the cycle of itch, scratch, itch, scratch, can remain.
My Rottweiler has been terribly affected two or three times now by this self-perpetuating cycle caused by her allergy to flea bites. Most of the skin damage has been caused by Kara incessantly scratching and injuring herself.
A dog with an infestation of fleas is neither a healthy nor a happy dog. So at the first sign of a flea, it’s important to treat your dog for this very common problem. And those pesky fleas don’t always readily show themselves. So if your dog is scratching more than usual, the first thing to do is a thorough search through your dog’s coat. If you sight even one flea, treat your dog immediately. Some people treat routinely just because it’s flea season, and still others actually treat throughout the year. And of course, it goes without saying that if you have more than one animal, you must treat them all at the same time.
This way, you’ll ensure that your dog is as healthy and happy as can be!
* There are natural alternatives to vaccinations. For further information, subscribe to the Healthy Happy Dogs newsletter.
(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs
Brigitte Smith is a dog lover with a special interest in natural health for dogs. For your free special report, as well as weekly tips, information, strategies and resources for a healthier happier dog, go to http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com and submit your name and email address. Take a look around the site - http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com - while you’re there - you’ll find lots of useful information.
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Posted on April 23rd, 2008 — in Animals
Cats have a natural instinct that will lead them to climb and scratch. If you are not providing the proper tools for the cat to use, they will use what they can find to scratch. For most, the times it will be furniture, drapes, counter tops or any thing that they can scratch.
Why does a cat need to scratch? Scratching is an enjoyable activity that a cat likes to do. Helps remove old layers of nails on the cat’s claws. Cats do scratching also to mark their territories in the home, so if there are other animals or cats in the house that is a way of telling them this is their area.
Lets look at what can we do to help the cat learn good behaviors for scathing. First, do not spray a cat if they are scratching on the counter as they will jump off, run, and think it is a game. Take them off and let them know that this is not acceptable for them to do this. A firm voice can accomplish this. Alternatively, use some ways like a pop can secured with tape with coins in the can this will makes noises to let them know you do not want this done and they should not be up there.
Providing a scratching pole or tree for the cat would be the best solution. With a scratching post, they are able to do this and not have your furniture ruin. There are many different types of scratching post on the market to get for the cat. Some are standing alone with carpeting on them to deluxe kind that the cat can scratch and climb with cubbyholes for them to nest in, nap, or hide. Also when purchasing a pole or tree for the cat, watch the carpeting on them as the cat will hook their claws on the loop if that is the type of carpeting that is on there.
Teaching a cat to scratch on a pole or tree does not come easy. You will have to show the cat what the pole is for and what options that can do on it. You yourself will have to scratch at the pole to show them that this is ok to do there. Providing good playtime with a cat with the pole will show the cat that they are able to use this. With rewarding the cat with a massage or healthy treat when they do use the pole. This will let the cat know that the behavior is acceptable.
Another thing that you could consider to help a cat not to scratch at your furniture is wrap the furniture in aluminum foil. Cats do not like the feel or the touch of aluminum foil. Putting netting or some type of woven fabric over it can help also, as cats do not like to snag their claws.
Making an environment when the cat is at home its self is a good idea to do, especially if they are still scratching at furniture, climbing the drapes or jumping on and off the counters and tables. This way you know the cat is safe and they can learn that they have to use only the items that you allow them to play with when you are gone or when you are at home. The environment should contain the only items that the cat able to play with. Scathing pole, toys, strings, balls, most important cat litter dish. One thing we do not want to forget is do not leave the water or the food out for the cat to get too as they will need to use the litter box and if you have not trained them yet you could have a surprises when you get home.
Cutting the cat claws to a proper length is another thing that will help. Cutting them to much down to the pink area will hurt the cat and could cause them to get infection. There are plenty of trained pet groomers to do this for a very small reasonable charge. You could ask the vet for a good groomer in your area.
I would love to share my cat training secrets with you and my new special articles on
cat training do
just that! Everything you need to know to train your cat is included in these special reports: See our Special section on Cat Breads.
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Posted on April 18th, 2008 — in Animals
A horse is a companion like no other…it feels very mystical when
you get a horse that’s right for you…
If you are venturing out to buy a horse, then that means you
have done all of your homework and have researched and
understand all that is involved in horse ownershipyou are aware
of the long-term commitment required and know the responsibility
and costs involved in owning a horse. And you have made
arrangements to provide a suitable home for your new horse.
That said, you will want to have some idea on the kind of horse
you’re looking for before going horse shopping. What
characteristics and personality do you want your horse to have?
You can gain some idea by using your own past experience taking
trail rides or riding lessons, going to horse shows, reading
horse magazines or talking to horse owners. Knowing what sort of
horse you want before shopping will help keep you focused and
not get caught up in a spontaneous purchase, only to find out
later on you ended up with the wrong horse. You also need to
know what your horse-buying budget is and only concentrate on
shopping for horses within your established price range.
Never rush a horse purchase. Take your time and avoid getting
caught up in the excitement of horse shopping and making an
impulse buy that does not turn out well. When taking your time
to shop for a horse, you can reduce your risk of buying the
wrong horse by at least 75%.
There are some alternatives to owning a horse if you decide you
might not quite be ready. Taking riding lessons allows you to
improve your skills while allowing you to be around horses. In
this regard, you get to participate in all the fun activities
without having all the hard work and expenses.
Horse camps are also a fun way for adults and children to be
with horses. These camps are typically designed to teach you
horsemanship and to provide you with horse riding training.
Leasing a horse is also a good option if you’re not too sure
about the long-term commitment required to care for a horse.
With a leased horse, you will have the full responsibility of
horse ownership; however, you are not stuck with the horse if
you later decide having a horse is not for you.
Co-ownership may also be an option. Sharing ownership with a
friend who is also a horse enthusiast is another way to reduce
or share chores and expenses. Both of you get the joy of owning
a horse, but with less cost and labor. Co-ownership also allows
you to more easily schedule for vacations and such.
Co-ownership with a friend who is also a horse enthusiast is
another way to reduce or share chores and expenses. You both get
the enjoyment of having a horse, but with less cost and labor.
This also allows you to more easily schedule for vacations.
When horse shopping, keep in mind a good saddle horse is one
that is comfortable with a saddle on its back, is gentle in
nature, is in good health and has a good disposition. If you are
not going to the only rider, then you will need to base your
purchasing decision with the least proficient rider in mind.
For the first time owner, you are going to want a horse that has
a good personality and is forgiving of small mistakes. A well
trained older horse of at least 5 years or older with a pleasant
demeanor is recommended.
If you are new to horses, then you should have a horse expert or
veterinarian help you evaluate the condition of the horse before
you buy. You will want to check the horse over and to make sure
the hooves are in good shape. The horse’s coat should be shiny
and smooth. Its eyes should look clear, bright and alert.
A good saddle horse should have a long straight back with flat
sides (no ribs poking out). Take the reigns and walk the horse.
Evaluate whether the horse limps or displays any physical
problem. When climbing into the saddle, the horse should stay
still and try to move away. Ride the horse and see how he
responds to your commands.
You will also want to understand why the horse is being sold.
When making the purchase, be sure you get a bill of sale that
clearly describes the horse and its markings in addition to the
purchase price and payment terms. Have the owner sign the
registration papers. If the owner has lost the registration
papers, then you will probably want the sale to be contingent
upon obtaining new registration papers. It can be a bit
expensive to get new papers with document research and
replacement fees and having someone come out to authenticate the
horse.
When you are in the market for a horse, a good place to start is
through personal contacts. If you know horse owners or are
taking horse lessons through an instructor, ask these people if
they know of any horses for sale. Through their inner-circle of
horse friends, vets, farriers, feed stores, tack shops, and
such, they may know of where a good horse might be for sale.
They can also give you some pointers on the type of horse that
may be best for you.
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Posted on April 16th, 2008 — in Animals
Do you ever wonder why people dress their dogs in coats? Aside
from fashion, there are a number of good reasons. Some dogs who
live in colder climates require the extra protection that a coat
provides. Smaller, hairless dogs, in particular, can be
extremely uncomfortable in colder weather.
With the many options available, there’s no excuse for a dog to
be anything but toasty warm. And chances are not only will the
coat keep the wet and cold out, it will draw quite a few
admiring glances from those who appreciate its style. Yes, those
in the dog coat industry have been very busy combining function
and fashion!
Dog coats come in a number of fabrics, and are similar in style
to those that people wear. You are sure to see the same colors
that you will see people wearing on the street or in the mall.
Pink, brown, and light blue are very “in” this year with people
and with dogs alike!
There are lots of different styles, and all make warmth a
priority. Dogs in extremely cold climates can benefit from a
coat made of quilted, waterproof nylon. These coats keep the
cold and wet out and the warmth in with an interior fleece
lining. Some dog coats are made of extremely high-tech,
high-quality outerwear material, much like the ski jackets made
for people. These are waterproof, breathable, and lined with
microfleece. Some of them come with reflective strips for
nighttime safety. There are coats that mimic ski parkas and
coats that mimic duffle coats. There are hooded coats and coats
with belly straps. There are faux suede shearling coats in
several trendy colors. Whatever style you decide to go with,
make sure its dog-proof. The coat should be easy to get in and
out of, and should be durable enough to withstand a day–or a
winter, for that matter–in the life of a dog.
Sweaters can also keep a dog warm in cold weather. Sweaters come
in different styles, colors, and materials. Those made of wool
are warmest, and there are some truly luxurious sweater options
for the dog owner. Nordic sweaters and Irish knit sweaters are
both warm and fashionable, not to mention the fact that they are
easy to wash. Fleece hoodies and sweatshirts also keep a dog
warm on milder days.
If you live an environment that has snow on the ground, boots
are imperative. Boots will protect your dog’s sensitive paws
from the cold, snow, and salt on the ground. If your dog has
chapped or cracked paws because of the cold, boots will also
speed the healing process along. Boots come in a variety of
colors and styles, but you’ll want to make sure they are easy to
get on and off with a zipper or velcro closure. The outer
material should be waterproof and durable.
With a warm coat and a good pair of boots, it’s easy to keep
your dog warm this winter.
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Posted on April 10th, 2008 — in Animals
Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.
Signs of Heartworm Infection
When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.
Treating Heartworm Infection
Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.
• Stage One - Dogs at the lowest risk - heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.
• Stage Two - Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing
• Stage Three - Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage
• Stage Four - Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying - surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.
When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.
Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.
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Posted on April 5th, 2008 — in Animals
June is Disaster Preparedness for Pets month - but if you’re a pet-care business professional it’s always a good time to make sure you’ve got a plan in place to administer to the needs of all the pets in your care when and if a disaster strikes.
Whether you live in a rural township that is prone to flooding, hurricanes or snowstorms, or you live in a metropolitan area that is prone to the above or may one day be a target of a man-made disaster, having a plan to help your clients and their pets is invaluable. Remember, you’ll want a plan that encompasses all the types of animals you care for - including livestock!
If you’re ready to create your own pet-disaster-preparedness plan - use these resources to create a plan custom-fitted for you and your clients:
• The Humane Society of the United States (http://www.hsus.org) has a myriad of resources, including brochures and a Disaster Center that can educate you on the best ways to prepare for a disaster.
• Your local Emergency Response Team can assist you in locating animal-friendly shelters in case of evacuation. They will also be able to provide you with any and all requirements necessary to house animals in such a shelter. (In most cases pets will need to be crated and will need to bring copies of their immunization records).
Spend some time researching and then create a plan that will work for you and your clients’ pets. Items to include in your plan:
• Maps for your sitters delineating which pets they are responsible for in case of an emergency;
• A waiver from your clients granting your company permission to transport their pets to the closest animal friendly shelter in case of evacuation;
• A waiver from your clients who do NOT want you to transport their pets in cases of disaster - letting you know that you are to leave their pets in place;
• Reminders for your clients to keep their pets’ vet records taped in or near their crate. Additionally, each pet should have up to 2 weeks of food in air- tight containers and easily accessible water containers so that you can find everything when you need to move swiftly;
• An understanding with each client where they can be found if an evacuation takes place and cell phones are not operational. Many families have an agreed upon meeting place - make sure you know the ‘meeting place’ for each family you work with so you are able to find them when the roads become passable.
A disaster preparedness plan is certainly something you hope you never have to use, but something that you must have to be a responsible pet-care business provider. Your clients will be grateful that you’ve gone the extra mile to ensure the safety and well-being of their pets.
Use your plan as a marketing tool. Once you’ve assembled your plan, why not write an article for the local paper about effective disaster preparedness for pets? How about offering a free tip- sheet on disaster-preparedness for pets for every potential new client who subscribes to your e-zine? Or, simply post your disaster preparedness tips on your website and offer it as a free article on the web - make sure you include a great resources box that gets folks to head to your website! Finally, you can expand your disaster preparedness research to create an offer a free seminar on the topic - either in conjunction with your local shelter, police and fire department or the local school.
However you position it - once you’ve done the homework - make sure you are providing a benefit to the largest amount of people. They will begin to immediately associate you as an expert. And the best clients always are willing to pay more money to work with the expert!
Peggie Arvidson-Dailey, is the founder of Pet-Care Business Success University. Go here (http://www.peggiespets.com/wst_page9.html) for a copy of her free report “243 Tips for Starting a Pet-Care Business.”
(c) 2005 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey. You absolutely may use this article in your e-zine or other publication as long as you keep the resource box and all links intact. Please forward a copy of your publication that contains this article.
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